Everything You Need To Know About RAM Control Arms

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Everything You Need To Know About RAM Control Arms

RAM Engineering control arms were developed & machined by racers & mechanics for racers & mechanics.  Us here at RAM Off-Road Racing have been through everything from barrel rolls to coming up just a tad short on a huge triple jump and come out with just about everything bent on the UTV except the control arms.  We had simple beginnings with stock control arms like everyone but it didn't take long before something bent or broke so we were to invest in some fabricated arms that through the hours of installation and welding on the frame to get them to fit, after spending a pretty penny, found that we still had failures in those control arms.  We had bent the front upper arm and had wheels ripped off of the car multiple times; and not from driving mistakes, simply from driving how we do, whether that be big jumps on the motocross track to rock climbs to desert runs.  And we can all say that one of the worst feelings is losing a first place trophy because a wheel came off or a control arm bent.  But we know that RAM Engineering aluminum control arms will make you dig in your wallet initially, but here is the overall gist of why we truly feel it is the best solution for suspension failures and everything you need to know about them.

Upper Arms

The weakest part of all other suspensions we have tried was the upper arms being bent in an arc to clear the tie rods.  RAM upper arms are uniquely designed to be straight instead, for increased overall strength.  

Additionally, all RAM upper arms use top of the line FK rod ends.

Knuckle Options

All knuckles use FK 3/4" x 3/4" rod ends for super strength.

We have two types of rod ends for the knuckles for you to choose from:

1.) Threaded.  The threaded option requires knuckles to be tapped.  This option is best for extreme driving so it can't come loose and move up and down in the knuckles.

2.) Slip-in.  (Like the factory ball joints).  This is the easiest option because it does not require you to tap the knuckles.  For basic driving, one may prefer the slip-in style knuckle.

If you decide to thread the knuckles (option 1), you can still go back to the factory type slip-in style.  Threading the knuckle does not ruin it.

Front Sway Bar Options

(FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: FACTORY SWAY BAR BRACKET; AFTERMARKET SWAY BAR BRACKET; NO SWAY BAR)

Currently, you may choose of three different options depending on which sway bar you have or if you are even running a sway bar.  RAM makes optional bolt-on sway bar brackets for RAM arms.

1.) Factory Sway Bar.  This option applies to all 2016 and newer Polaris RZR 1000XP UTVs (like the factory turbo models) that are running the original sway bar.  (These models came with a factory front sway bar).

2.) Aftermarket Sway Bar.  This option is for any Polaris RZR 1000XP/XPT UTVs that are running an aftermarket sway bar that attaches to the front lower arm such as Nelson & Nelson brand sway bar.

3.) No Sway Bar.  This option applies to 2014 and newer RZR 1000XP UTVs that are not running a sway bar.  This is our base price front suspension.  However if you decided to purchase the brackets at a later date, all arms are spot drilled for ease of installation.

Modular Configuration

This unique modular design makes the system super easy to install.  Each upper and lower arm unbolts into two pieces so that one would be able to purchase individual arm pieces in case of severe rock damage to the forward lower arm.  Although these arms have never failed yet, some day you may want to update the appearance after a series or who without buying a whole new set.

Arm-To-Knuckle Setup

Besides the nearly indestructible design, the cream of the crop is the way the control arms attach to the knuckles.  The way RAM arms are set up puts the rod end, or the spherical bearing, at the correct alignment as opposed to laying it on its side.  Almost all other manufacturers have the bearings laying on its side.  With other suspensions, we experienced the bearings getting loose after just a day or two of practice.  So this was our primary goal to strengthen not only the pin at the knuckle but to improve the life of the bearings.  We have a complete success with our design after over a year of complete abuse we removed the rod ends and checked them and there was no play at all in the bearings.  They were reinstalled and are still in the car today with the original prototype suspension.

Why Aluminum Instead of Steel?

We have two answers to this:

1.) Aluminum pound for pound is several times stronger than steel so we can build a set much stronger without the extra weight.

2.) Aluminum absorbs impacts better than steel, this year of racing we have been surprised at the rock impacts the arms have been able to take without breaking.  We are still running the same set of arms even after breaking several rocks on them.

Additional Benefits

After bolting on RAM arms you should have better steering and handling due to the adjustability of the arms available.

There will be a 1" increase in wheelbase for more stability at high speeds, without forfeiting cornering ability at slower speeds.

Accuracy

The front suspension is set up on a new factory frame to ensure that the geometry is correct when you receive them.  However they are fully adjustable so you can set them up for any type of racing or driving you prefer.

About RAM Off-Road Racing

Ray Mandel has been racing all types of vehicles for over 30 years as a pro.  When the Polaris RZR 1000XP came out in 2014 it was finally time to give them a try.  The cars handled so good that they could be driven way harder than Polaris intended we believe.  Immediately we started to have major failures with so many different components.  One by one we began to fix these issues and had a great car in the end, but we were still loosing races because of failures in the front suspension that we couldn't find parts to hold up to our type of racing (mostly motocross style tracks and rock racing).  So racing got put on hold to develop a front suspension that would hold up.  We started racing again in 2016 Ray Mandel dominated the 2016 Dirt Riot series with four 1st place finishes and two 2nd place finishes.  We won the mountain series, took the win in national points, won the National Rampage Race, finished 3rd in the South West series with a 1st and 2nd place finish.  In 2017, Ray swept the pro class with all 1st place finishes and one 2nd place finish, won the National RAMpage Race and his daughter even jumped in the non-turbo RZR last minute to race the non-pro UTV class and walked away with a 1st place as well.  Shane Chiddix also had great success with this suspension with no failures in 2016, having 1st place finishes in Dirt Riot and Ultra 4 at Glen Helen.

Cost

RAM Front Suspension Starting at: $2,399

RAM Rear Suspension: $799


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